Keyence 24VDC Sensor Test Box?

[Chris Elston]

Have anyone ever seen Keyence's 24VDC sensor test box that had speaker clips on it with three 9 volts inside. You could slap your 24VDC sensor on this box and also connect it to an LED output. Is that availible anymore? Or was that strictly a give away a long time ago. Anyone ever built your own sensor test box? I just have a question about the LED output. The LED's I bought are 3.3 volt with 20ma. So I am thinking all I need is 1.2K ohm resistor in series with a photoeye output to make my own box. Anyone back me up on that? I also double checked here: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz Does that sound correct? 24 VOLTS 3.3 volt LED 20mA current draw Limiting resister I need 1.2 Kohms

[Beuwolf_1]

I know that SICK makes test boxes that are for sale, as well as AB, but I am not sure of the part number. I would just make my own anyway just like your doing.

[Smoke]

I'm thinking Banner and Keyence are interchangable? Try this link. http://www.baneng.com/products/photoelectr...rsupplies/dbq5/

[gravitar]

I've got the banner one (as pictured), it is a pretty nicely-engineered unit. I've also got an A-B battery box that, just as the name implies, is two 9V batteries in series with a couple spring clips on top. (18VDC is sufficient to power most sensors) For what they charge for these (at last check the Banner one was about $80) I'd just make my own. Doesn't look that hard at all. If fact, in most cases all you really want is a DC power source anyway, so just look for a 12-24VDC wall wart and splice a prox cord(s) onto the end. We've got one like that at work, with a mini, micro, and pico cable stub all in parallel so just about any sensor can be checked.

[Jamie571]

I have the banner and the turck one, both were given to me by salesmen. Me or one of my controls techs uses them many times a day. They verify all sensors to check for placement before I debug my programs. I had to purchase a turck micro to pico connector as almost all sensors I use have this connector now.

[Bob O]

If I need to test a sensor I use a single 9 volt battery wired up to a M12 and this has worked fine every time, at least with Sick sensors.

[IO_Rack]

Omron makes one as well. It also checks fibers. E39-VX Beam Checker

[panic mode]

well if it's going to make life easier for anyone, this is what was inside one I had chance to open:

[Chris Elston]

Thanks alot guys. I am in the process of making my own. I went to Rat Shack and picked up all the parts I need for under $20 bucks. I'll post a picture when done.

[Chris Elston]

Ok so I am in a bit of a hurry so I can setup a test sensor, but I made this with under $20.00 parts from RAT Shack and about 30 minutes. I would RECOMMEND a bigger box for the batteries. This one is TOO small, but everything fit ok. When I get back to work, I'll add a M12 Micro and M8 Pico cord to it. Should be easy for quick disconnect sensors. Thanks guys! I ended up using different LED's that are 1.7 volts and 20mA. So at 18 Volt supply instead of 24V (27V with three 9V), I ended up figuring a 815 ohm resistor, (source 18V - 1.7v LED / 0.02A) I just went with a 1K ohm just to be safe. Three 9V would not fit in my box anyway....

[panic mode]

cool, just that black ink is kinda hard to read, i almost missed +,-, PNP and NPN signs... i wouldn't worry too much about bringing LED current to 20mA. this is usually maximum they can take in continuous duty (you might want to save the batteries too). 5-15mA will work too and specially with newer LEDs brightness difference will not be significant. human senses are not quite linear.

[Chris Elston]

Just a little update, you'll want to add an on/off switch, because the two resistors drain the batteries after a while with a DUAL NPN or PNP setup like the above diagram.

[BobLfoot]

If you are at RAT Shack they have a nice N.O. Momentary pushbutton that would fit in your kit box. I say N.O. Momentary so that you don't forget and turn the tester off. You could even label the button "IN WHITE INK" <Push to Test>. LOL LOL. Edited May 7, 2006 by BobLfoot

[Chris Elston]

Too late... Here are the FINAL mods. Still under $20.00 at RAT SHACK parts! Some scrap M12 and M8 QD cables, good to go! Nice box now....

[BobLfoot]

You added a green LED Does that mean you changed wiring or used the green for a power on LED?

[TimWilborne]

Mickey needs to make a comment on your table like he did on THIS post. Your middle picture reveals you covered it with drawing paper. Now why didn't I think of that? He can paint your table for a price

[Chris Elston]

Here is the updated drawings, taken from panic_mode.... Also attached a PDF below. - testerbox.pdf

[Chris Elston]

Here is a shot of my bench at home in my office just moments ago..... Maybe I could get him to paint it for me???

[TimWilborne]

I recommend Mickey. Did a great job on mine

[TimWilborne]

But jokes aside this is a great test unit. I'm going to build me one. 5 points for engineering

[BobLfoot]

I pray you never have to 5S that bench.

[TimWilborne]

Actually I have to admit I'm a little jealous of Chakorules workbench. It looks to have some solid wood under it. Mines just sheet metal. I want one

[panic mode]

looks very nice. i don't see M8 4-pin connector (common on photoeyes), but this should be no problem with the speaker terminals...

[Chris Elston]

We use 99% M12 Micro style for photoeyes. M8 for Prox switches. I suppose for someone else, if they are making it, they can do what ever they need too. Turned out great in the end I think. Thanks for the help!